Approach
- Walk seaward along the approach path and scramble down an easy groove on your left.
- The Storm Surge boulder is about 50m East along the beach.
- The Prow is a few metres East of the Storm Surge boulder.
- The Slice and Dice boulder is another 30m East past The Prow.
Astwood Cove Overview by Davie Crawford
PUSSY WEAPON V1 5m
The overhanging arete facing east up the beach. Low tide required.
Grant Farquhar 17/7/11
Grant Farquhar on the First Ascent of Pussy Weapon. Photo Davie Crawford.
CONNIE’S PUNANI V0 5m
The runnel right of the overhanging arete found just west of the descent to the beach.
Grant Farquhar 17/7/11
Storm Surge boulder
This impressive boulder provides some excellent bouldering at amenable grades.
The boulder is best at low to mid tide. At high tide bouldering becomes shallow water soloing. The rock is surprisingly reliable and the boulder offers some climbing on everything from small pockets to gigantic jugs of joy. The sharp top outs can be a wee bit character building.
High sand levels (similar conditions to the photo in the topo below) make the boulder about 4m high. There may still be some rocks exposed in the vicinity of the landing zone and spotters are recommended.
Very low sand levels make the boulder 6m high and the climbing becomes fairly highball. The sand is very shallow and rocks in the landing zone become more exposed and, hence, dangerous (this should be obvious).
Please be careful to assess the conditions and be prepared to adjust your plans.
Climb at your own risk. The contributors to this wiki accept no responsibility for anything.
1/ Atlantic Arete (V2)
Brilliant climbing directly up the juggy left arete of the boulder to a sharp top out. Much easier than it looks! Video here.
Davie Crawford 19/7/8
2/ Storm Surge (V2)
The longest problem on the boulder, following the juggy left to right hand rail, crossing Breakdance, Flangio, Tiny Bubbles and topping out on the least move of Bertha. Named for the storm surge waves (courtesy of Hurricane Bertha) that washed the boulder on the day of the FA of this problem.
Davie Crawford 12/7/8
3/ Breakdance (V2)
Gain a juggy, horizontal break in the distinctive triangular niche then go for gold straight above.
Davie Crawford 8/7/8
4/ Flangio (V3)
This tricky, direct route takes the centre of the White Wall. Power through shallow, fingery pockets past the flange feature to a juggy chequered flag.
Davie Crawford 21/10/8
5/ Razor’s Route (V3)
Just right of Flangio, start on two small crimps/ sidepulls and make a dynamic reach for a two finger pocket. Ascend the juggy rails above to the top. A slightly easier sister problem to Flangio.
Davie Crawford 18/3/9
6/ Tiny Bubbles (V1)
Just left of Bertha, climb the smooth wall through a shield of pocketed rock.
Davie Crawford 8/7/8
7/ Bertha (V1)
At the right side of the White Wall, climb the faint crack line, topping out via a tiny left facing corner. It is better if you climb on the left hand side of the crack as the rock is of higher quality.
Davie Crawford- 8/7/8
The low traverse of the Storm Surge boulder goes at V0.
The Prow (V1) (Davie Crawford- 23/7/8)- from a sit start down in the niche on the left climb the strenuous prow feature to a razor top out! Much better at low sand level.
The Slice and Dice Boulder
This steeply overhanging, non- tidal boulder lies about 30m East of the White Wall. It provides some good climbs. The landing is fairly good onto sand, but spotters are a good idea in case of unplanned ejections- there are a few dastardly rocks to avoid.
The problems are described from left to right.
Video- ‘Dopage 1’ by Caroline Stockdale.
I am the Walrus (V2)
This short, but frustrating problem lies just to the left of the main overhang on surprisingly good white rock. Sit start just left of the corner where The Slant starts. Without using handholds on the right wall make a strenous pull to a sloping shelf. Latching the flat top out from here may lead to the horrendous mantelshelf finish. All you need is love, and a Walrus- style mantelshelf technique. Become the Walrus!
Davie Crawford 21/02/09
The Slant (V1)
A good natural line on the left hand side of the main overhanging face.
A hand rail of holds leads out right from the corner. Make steep moves along them to a thank god jug, before a flat top out.
Davie Crawford 21/02/09
Slice and Dice (V3)
This short problem lies just to the right of the slant in the middle of the overhung portion of the wall. Sit start on two small holds proceeds into to large moves past the over hang to a juggy edge. Move up and over the overhang onto small sharp character building holds and top out.
Joshua Hill 21/02/09
Nail in the Coffin (V2)
This route begins to the right of the overhang along a small pillar. Begin the sit start on the small rock and proceed up the small pillar to good holds. Move hands up and right onto ledges and work your way up each ledge. Beware of top out as you’re under a higher overhanging ledge when you get up.
Joshua Hill 21/02/09
High and Dry (V2)
This is a long traverse beginning just to the right of Nail in the Coffin. Begin on right most corner as a sit start and proceed up and left past the start of Nail in the Coffin (beware the rock below). As you ascend and your hands hit the first ledges continue traversing left past Slice and Dice. Finish on good holds on the same ledges as The Slant.
Joshua Hill 21/02/09
Climb De Rock 