Clarence Cove

West of the dock in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip. This is the most popular DWS venue in Bermuda. The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the dock and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery.
The routes are safe at any state of the tide with the odd exception that is mentioned in the description. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar. Topo at the foot of the page. A light northerly makes for ideal conditions. However, above 10 knots (in any northerly/easterly wind direction) there will be significant splashing up the crag.
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Angus & Robert Davidson DWS in Clarence Cove. Photo Gordon Davidson.
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Tim Emmett on the crux of Ambergris. Photo Grant Farquhar.

The first route described, Ambergris, is the sea level traverse of the wall which is utilised to approach the UP ROUTES.

SEA-LEVEL TRAVERSES

AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse

A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. Can be combined with HOGWASH and reversing The X Man Traverse/Death By Bongo Bongo in Hogfish Bay to give a 150m sea-level traverse all the way from the start of Ambergris to the western point of Hogfish Bay at 5.11+. Grant Farquhar 15 October 2006.

Variation Finish: Point Counterpoint. A good introduction to DWS as it is close to the water and only about 5.7. Continue traversing beyond the caves around the point to finish at the ledge and steps on the west side of the point. Grant Farquhar March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).

.Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Jazmyne Watson on the initial traverse of Ambergris on a 10 knot day. Photo Grant Farquhar.

THE UP ROUTES


SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 8m

The dark side of the Lara Croft arete forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath. Start as for Lara Croft but stay inside the cave on the left hand side of the arete to reach the left hand side of the handrail. Climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone. Grant Farquhar 8 April 2010
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Jazmyne Watson starting Sinister Sister. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Dave Pickford on the crux of Lara Croft. Photo Grant Farquhar.

LARA CROFT 5.11a 8m

A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the very front of the pillar. Climb this directly to a handrail and shake out before licking the final groove into submission. Lost some jugs in 2013. Grant Farquhar 18 October 2006.
Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing TopoClarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft’s jugs before being rejected. Photo Grant Farquhar.

LEUKOSIA 5.11d 8m

This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft. Grant Farquhar 15 August 2008


XAVIER 5.12c 8m

A fierce direct finish to Leukosia. From the holds at the junction with White Guilt blast direct to the top. Grant Farquhar 13/6/12 Second ascent Marc Burgess 30/6/12.

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Jazmyne Watson vs Xavier. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Jazmyne Watson vs Xavier. Photo Grant Farquhar.


WHITE PRIVILEGE 5.12a 8m

A direct precursor to White Guilt. Step down and left from the start of Song to the Siren. Climb through the roof with difficulty to join White Guilt at the sloping crimps in the middle of the traverse. Finish with White Guilt. Grant Farquhar 28/10/16


SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 8m

An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets in the wall over the lip of the roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 27 July 2008.


SIRENESQUE 5.11c 8m

Climb the first couple of moves of Song to the Siren to gain the lip of the roof. Instead of continuing to the pockets campus and heel hook the lip of the roof rightwards into Atlantis below the niche and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 4 Nov 2014.

[Untitled]Seb Grieve on White Guilt. Photo Grant Farquhar.

WHITE GUILT 5.11d 8m

Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux. Grant Farquhar 9 August 2008.


BULLET IN THE CHEST 5.12d 8m

The Emmett has landed! From the deep pockets on the above two routes climb direct to the top. Tim Emmett 9 December 2010. Second ascent Ward Byrum 2 July 2011. Video here. Third ascent Grant Farquhar 2012. First on-sight flash by Dave Pickford 29/3/15.

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Marc Burgess hitting the lip on the fourth ascent of Bullet in the Chest. Photo Grant Farquhar.

SAMHAIN 5.12a 8m

This eliminate takes the centre of the roof direct. Start in the back of the cave. Use crimpy underclings to reach more poor crimps over the lip. Match a sloper, cut loose and fight the pumpkin. Continue directly through Sirenesque into Song to the Siren and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 31/10/15.


ATLANTIS 5.11b 8m

Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. Grant Farquhar 21 October 2006. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/09 Eloise Pitts Crick found a 6-foot-long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.

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Timothy Claude on Atlantis. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Marc Burgess on Lost City. Photo Grant Farquhar.


LOST CITY 5.11d 8m

A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf. Subsequenty to be found less dramatic climbed statically. First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward Byrum, 2007. First non-Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6 Aug 2008. Video of a Ward ascent with a… ‘variation finish’ here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/Another Video of Atlantis and Lost City here

Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
A shark’s eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis. Photo Grant Farquhar.


BAMPOTTERY 5.11c 8m

An eliminate but independent start to Flangemaster Flash. Quintessential bampottery YA BASS! Start off the ledge between Atlantis and Bathos Party. Heid butt the teuchter bampot large roof to join Flangemaster Flash and then Atlantis. Beware of the ledge under the starting moves. Grant Farquhar 13/8/11.


BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 8m

Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this. Grant Farquhar 27 March 2008.

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Jazmyne Watson rocking over on the crux of Bathos Party. Photo Grant Farquhar.


FLANGEMASTER FLASH 5.11c 8m

A harder indirect variation on Bathos Party. From the flange hold under the roof make like Flange McFlangenstein along the mini-flangefest leftwards under the lip to join Atlantis at the exit from the niche. Finish up Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 2 June 2010.
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In Bermuda it is possible to DWS year round. This is an ascent of Atlantis after work in November. Photo Grant Farquhar.


ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 8m

Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Step around the rib then climb directly past the obvious rock scar to a horizontal break. Rockover leftwards to the finish of Atlantis. Alternatively and slightly harder, climb the arete directly and step right to the horizontal break. (2008). Grant Farquhar March 2003.

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Raul Bora on Romantic Pottery. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Another angle on Rock & Raul. Photo Grant Farquhar.

GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 8m

This eliminate route tackles the direct finish to Romantic Pottery. Start as for Romantic Pottery. Climb right of the scar to the horizontal break. Step right and summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate directly to the top of the headwall. Grant Farquhar 2008.

THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m

This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb up and slightly right on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange sloper. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct Start (as described) Davie Crawford 12 August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18 April 2009.
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Marie-Pier Belanger on Enema of the State. Photo Grant Farquhar.

ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m

This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except springs low tide. Grant Farquhar 24 October 2006. Second ascent by Davie Crawford 18 April 2009.

SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m

A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange sloper (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 28 April 2009.
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Jazmyne Watson on Sycophant. Photo Grant Farquhar.

SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m

The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously. Grant Farquhar 31 May 2009. Video Here

KISS ASS 5.11b 7m

This variation was formerly known as “The order of the brown nose”. It is one step short of sycophancy. From half way along the rail between Enema of the State and the brown nose of Sycophant, make a long move up to holds in the white scoop up and left of the brown nose. Finish directly. Grant Farquhar 19/5/10.

KICK ASS 5.11d 7m

Kick Ass or get yo ass kicked on this direct start to Kiss Ass. Fierce sequential climbing on sharp pockets. Start on the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Climb just right of Enema of the State through the roof above the LHS of the ledge to gain the rail. Kiss Ass to finish. Grant Farquhar 26/9/10. 2nd ascent Josh Hill 9th July, 2011.

(ORDERING) ENEMA TRAUMA 5.11c 7m

Start up Enema, traverse as for Sycophant and just keep traversing until you’re at the top out tree stump of Barotrauma. John Langston 18/8/10 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 19/8/10.

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Adrian Kawaly-Lathan on Kiss Ass. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Josh Hill giving Dave Pickford beta for Persistence is Futile. Photo Grant Farquhar.


PERSISTENCE IS FUTILE 5.12a 7m

A direct line up Sycophant that begins in the cave below. Find the huge left hand pocket to begin and lean out to reach for a right seeming jug. Lock you feet next to your left hand and bump to another semi-good right hand crimp. Use left hand intermediates until your able to hit the left hand crimp just before the brown nose on Sycophant. Pray that your feet don’t cut loss and finish up Sycophant. Josh Hill and Ward Byrum 30/6/11.

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Josh Hill on Persistence is Futile. Photo Grant Farquhar.

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Same route, same move, different Josh. Josh Stephenson cutting loose on Persistence is Futile. Photo Grant Farquhar.


OLGA 5.12a 7m

Petra’s uglier younger sister. Start up Persistence is Futile to the lip of the roof. Traverse rightwards on the lip to join Barotrauma where it pulls through the roof. Duck rightwards under the lip for a few moves and pull over to join Petra and finish Petrafied. Marc Burgess 6 July 2012. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 26/5/14.

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Jazmyne Watson versus Olga. Photo Grant Farquhar.


BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m

Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a tree stump. Grant Farquhar 7 November 2006. Video here.
[Untitled]Grant Farquhar experiencing Barotrauma. Photo Andrew Burr.
.[Untitled]Grant Farquhar experiencing Barotrauma. Photo Andrew Burr.

SAM’S KRAKEN 5.12a

A footless direct start to Olga. Start as for Barotrama but then move immediately right under the roof and out to an obvious undercut hold in the roof. Continue on pockets to join and finish as for Olga. Fabian Gysi 11 Sep 2016. Second ascent Josh Stephenson 1 Oct 2016.

THE MING DYNO NASTY 5.11b 7m

Footless moves across the lip of the roof above Emperor Ming will leave you literally over the ming. A contrived name for a contrived but good fun route. Start as for Barotrauma, step right into Petra. Slap right to the good pocket of Petrafied. Campus rightwards again to a horizontal slot and top out above. Grant Farquhar 29/9/11.

PETRA 5.11c 7m

Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Petra originally had some good jugs but these have become wobblier with age. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 3rd Sep 2008. Video Here.
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Elena Ovchinnikova vs Petra. Photo Grant Farquhar.

PETRAFIED 5.11c 7m

Climb Petra to the jug immediately after the crux. Slap right to a good pocket and make a one arm pull up to finish directly above. Grant Farquhar 1 June 2011. 2nd ascent Josh Hill 5 June 2011.


EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m

Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn’t tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming. Grant Farquhar 25 April 2009. Second ascent John Langston June 2010.

CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m

Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave. Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof. Traverse the lip leftwards to a massive jug and rockover finish. Davie Crawford 19 September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20 September 2008.

Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Jazmyne Watson on the lip of Captain Caveman. Photo Grant Farquhar.


CAPTAIN CANADA 5.11c 5m

Kicks Captain Caverman’s ass. Start up Captain Caveman to where this moves right through the roof. Climb directly through the roof to rejoin Captain Caveman at the finishing moves. Marc Burgess & Grant Farquhar 1 July 2012.

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Davie Crawford repeating Captain Caveman. Photo Grant Farquhar.


CAPTAIN BASTARD 5.11a 5m

Start up Unga Bunga to the jugs in the groove. Swing left along the lip of the roof into Captain Caveman. Finish up and leftwards. Grant Farquhar 28/6/14. Second ascent Josh Stephenson 1 July 2014.
Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Josh Stephenson on the second ascent of Captain Bastard.

UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m

This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above. Grant Farquhar 12 August 2009.

Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo

Clarence Cove topo, looking from east to west, some routes not marked. Photo Grant Farquhar.

THE TRAVERSES

The next section describes the fun that can be had on the eliminate traverses which start on one route or another and finish somewhere else with little or no new climbing. If you start getting involved in these then you are definitely suffering from rock fever.

LEFT TO RIGHT

AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse

A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. Can be combined with HOGWASH and reversing The X Man Traverse/Death By Bongo Bongo in Hogfish Bay to give a 150m sea-level traverse all the way from the start of Ambergris to the western point of Hogfish Bay at 5.11+. Grant Farquhar 15 October 2006.

Variation Finish: Point Counterpoint. A good introduction to DWS as it is close to the water and only about 5.7. Continue traversing beyond the caves around the point to finish at the ledge and steps on the west side of the point. Grant Farquhar March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).


LACTIC ACID TEST 5.12c 35m traverse

The ultimate left to right traverse. Follow Lactic Acid Trip to finish as for The Ming Dyno Nasty. Grant Farquhar 28 May 2014


LACTIC ACID BATH 5.12c 35m traverse

Seeks out the most difficult link up. Start as for Sinister Sister on the ledge left of the rib of Lara Croft. Follow Sinister Sister to gain the handrail of Lara Croft. Reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren and follow this to the shake out before the final roof of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call to cross Enema of the State. (Ordering) Enema Trauma leads to a shake out just before the finishing moves. Traverse rightwards across the lip of the roof into Petra and reverse this to the ledge. Grant Farquhar 7 June 2011.


AFRIKAN BABY 5.12b 27m traverse

A precursor to Lactic Acid Trip. Start at Song to the Siren, climb to the rest before the exit of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call, cross Enema of the State and finish with (Ordering) Enema Trauma. Leeroy Beeby 11 November 2016.

LACTIC ACID TRIP 5.12b 30m traverse

The most logical left to right traverse. Follow Lactic Ocean to the rest before the exit of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call to cross Enema of the State and continue as for (Ordering) Enema Trauma to finish. Grant Farquhar 23/9/10.


LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 15m traverse

A good introduction to the traverses. Follow Ambergris to Lara Croft. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 9 Sep 2008.
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Marc Burgess on Lactic Ocean. Photo Grant Farquhar.

RIGHT TO LEFT

SHOOT TO KILL 5.13b 70m

The longest and most sustained endurance traverse possible in Clarence Cove. Follow Poopenshooten all the way to join Lara Croft at the handrail. Shake out here before reversing Poopenshooten to finish as for Lactic Acid Test/ The Ming Dyno Nasty. Dave Pickford (on-sight flash) 29/3/15.

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Dave Pickford on the first ascent of Shoot to Kill. Photo Grant Farquhar.


MENTAL SLAVERY 5.12d 35m traverse

The ultimate right to left traverse adds the Sinister Sister finish to Poopenshooten. You can’t start any further right and you can’t finish any further left. Emancipate yourself as follows. Start as for Petra on the sea-level ledge right of the mouth of the exit cave. Climb the crux of Petra and continue leftwards above the lip of the cave to big holds and a shake out on Barotrauma. Continue traversing leftwards to the brown nose of Sycophant. Reverse this route along the handrail into Enema of the State and onwards to join and follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis just before its finishing moves. Reverse Atlantis leftwards under the massive roof into a niche where Song to the Siren joins Atlantis. Reverse Song to the Siren to the deep pockets on White Guilt. Follow White Guilt leftwards (crux) to join Lara Croft at the handrail. From the LHS of the handrail finish as for Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 25 May 2014.
[Untitled]Dave Pickford on-sighting Poopenshooten. Photo Grant Farquhar.

POOPENSHOOTEN 5.12d 35m traverse

The penultimate right-to-left traverse. Same start as Base Humping and continue as for Clucking to top out on Lara Croft ‘with the fingertips gripping the phosphorus overhang and the fingers of the other hand feeling the moist labia, maybe probing a little’. This route contains no new climbing and doesn’t have a single move beyond 11d. It will still have you screaming: ‘Lick my Ass.’ Rack: Nuts, strapon, buttplug. John Langston Oct 17, 2010. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 22/6/11. On-sighted by Dave Pickford 27/3/15.

BASE HUMPING 5.12a 25m traverse

Another very sustained 25m right-to-left traverse. Start up Petra into Petrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to the crux section of Enema of the State. Don’t even think about downclimbing this to the big jug and a rest. Continue immediately leftwards via the only new moves on the route into Scottish Mating Call to finish as for Atlantis. If you climb this route in shorts during a hurricane the experience is like the sensation of 15 000 angels blowing really gently on your scrotum, it’s very spiritual. Grant Farquhar 29 August 2010 (Hurricane Danielle).
Clarence Cove - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Tim Emmett takes time out from Base Jumping to enjoy a spot of Base Humping. Photo Grant Farquhar.

ROCKET IN THE HEAD 5.13b 25m traverse

Links up the most difficult start and finish in Clarence Cove. A power endurance testpiece. Start up Persistence is Futile to gain the brown nose of Sycophant. Follow Poopenshooten to finish as for Bullet in the Chest. Dave Pickford (on-sight flash) 29/3/15.

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Dave Pickford on the first ascent of Rocketeer. Photo Grant Farquhar.

ROCKETEER 5.13a 25m traverse

Another power endurance testpiece linking the start of Persistence is Futile to Xavier. Dave Pickford (on-sight flash) 31/3/15.


CLUCKING 5.12b 25m traverse

The counter diagonal to Lactic Ocean gives a 25m traverse. Start from the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Reverse this and then Song to the Siren leftwards to encounter White Guilt at the deep pockets, finish along this and Lara Croft. Hardcore, f*cking hardcore. Remember, we are climbers who f*ck, not f*ckers who climb. Grant Farquhar 25 April 2010.

CLUCKERY 5.12b 25m traverse

Start via Clucking, exit via Sinister Sister.
Grant Farquhar 8 May 2014.

LINK UPS

THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c

Start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves. Grant Farquhar 6 June 2009.


BARF 5.11b

Barotrauma to Petrafied.

Josh Hill 5 June, 2011. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 9 June, 2011.


(ORDERING) ENEMA PETRA 5.11d

(Ordering) Enema Trauma to finish by going down on Petra.

Grant Farquhar May 2011.


SONG TO THE STATE 5.11c

Start as for Song to the Siren and finish as for Enema of the State.

Grant Farquhar 23/8/11.


SURF BURGLAR 5.11d

Start as for White Privilege and finish as for Lactic Ocean. Named after that morning’s surf session which involved getting past the geriatric nazi manning the gate on the private road leading to the only surf break working in Bermuda on that day. Grant Farquhar 4/11/16 (49th birthday)


LARA SISTER 5.11b

Follow Lara Croft to the handrail, traverse left and finish up Sinister Sister.

Grant Farquhar 30/4/09.


SINISTER CROFT 5.11a

Start up Sinister Sister to the handrail and finish up Lara Croft.

Grant Farquhar 8/4/10.


FLANGE ARMSTRONG 5.12a 15m

Yet another pointless but sustained variation. Follow Flangemaster Flash to the junction with Atlantis. Milk the strenuous no-hands rest in the niche before finishing by Clucking.

Grant Farquhar 20/6/10.


STRONG SISTER 5.12a

Flange Armstrong to finish with Cluckery.
Grant Farquhar 9 June 2014.

ODE TAE A FART 5.11b

Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Downclimb Atlantis.
Grant Farquhar 9/July/11.

TAXIDERMIA 5.11c

Start up the first couple of moves of Atlantis. Follow the hanging rail rightwards across Bampottery to join Bathos Party under the roof. Finish as for this.
Grant Farquhar 1 Oct 16.

HARUSPICY TIMES 5.11c

Start along Sirenesque into Atlantis. Finish as for the above route.

Grant Farquhar 2 Oct 16.


NERYS 5.11d

Reverse Sirenesque to finish with White Guilt.

Grant Farquhar 5 Nov 14.


NERYSISTER 5.11d

Reverse Sirenesque to finish via Sinister Sister.
Grant Farquhar 5 Nov 14.

NERYSIREN 5.11d

A circuitous trip around the Atlantis cave.Reverse Sirenesque into Song to the Siren and finish up this.
Grant Farquhar 8 Nov 14.

WHITE SISTER 5.11d 8m

White Guilt to Sinister Sister.

Grant Farquhar 8 May 2014.


LEUKOSISTER 5.11d 8m

Leukosia to Sinister Sister.

Grant Farquhar 23/6/11.


PET TRAUMA 5.11c 7m

This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
Grant Farquhar 14 May 2009.

PET ENEMA 5.11c

Start up Petra. Reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with an Enema of the State.

Grant Farquhar 2010.


PROFESSOR X 5.12c 8m

Start up Bullet and finish up Xavier.
Grant Farquhar 30/6/12.
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Grant Farquhar on Professor X. Photo Chris Burville.

PROCTALGIA 5.11c 7m

Start sycophantically. From the brown nose make a long reach diagonally up and left to Kiss Ass.
Grant Farquhar 15/7/12.

GAY BAR 5.11c 7m

Start up Barotrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with Proctalgia
Grant Farquhar & Marc Burgess 19/7/12.

LACTIC CITY 5.12a 8m

Lats Lactic Ocean to Lost City.

Grant Farquhar 27/5/12.


SONG TO THE CITY 5.11d 8m

Song to the Siren to Lost City.

Grant Farquhar 26/5/12.


GLASGOW 5.11d 8m

Start with Bampottery to finish with Lost City and arrive at Bam City.

Grant Farquhar 29/5/12.


STOCKHOLM 5.11d 8m

Start as for Flangemaster Flash to Atlantis. Exit via Lost City to arrive in Flange City.

Grant Farquhar 29/5/12.


VEGAS 5.11d 8m

Bathos Party to Lost City.

Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.


VENICE 5.11d 8m

Romantic Pottery to Lost City.

Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.


RIGA 5.11d 8m

Scottish Mating Call to Lost City.

Grant Farquhar 30/5/12.


VANCOUVER 5.12a

Follow Base Humping to finish via Lost City and arrive in Base City.

Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.

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Jazmyne Watson on Barotrauma. Photo Grant Farquhar.