West of the dock in Clarence Cove are some man-made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip. This is the most popular DWS venue in Bermuda. The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the dock and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery.
The routes are safe at any state of the tide with the odd exception that is mentioned in the description. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar. Topo at the foot of the page. A light northerly makes for ideal conditions. However, above 10 knots (in any northerly/easterly wind direction) there will be significant splashing up the crag.
Clarence Cove topo.
The first route described, Ambergris, is the sea level traverse of the wall which is utilised to approach the UP ROUTES.
SEA-LEVEL TRAVERSES
POINT COUNTERPOINT 5.7 30m sea-level traverse
A good introduction to DWS as it is close to the water and only about 5.7. Traverse from the steps and caves in the point clockwise or anti-clockwise around the point to finish at the start. Grant Farquhar March 2003.
AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse
A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. Can be combined with Hogwash and reversing The X Man Traverse/Death By Bongo Bongo in Hogfish Bay to give a 150m sea-level traverse all the way from the start of Ambergris to the western point of Hogfish Bay at 5.11+. Grant Farquhar 15 October 2006.
SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 8m
The dark side of the Lara Croft arete forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath. Start as for Lara Croft but stay inside the cave on the left hand side of the arete to reach the left hand side of the handrail. Climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone. Grant Farquhar 8 April 2010
LARA CROFT 5.11a 8m
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the very front of the pillar. Climb this directly to a handrail and shake out before licking the final groove into submission. Lost some jugs in 2013. Grant Farquhar 18 October 2006.
LEUKOSIA 5.11d 8m
This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft. Grant Farquhar 15 August 2008
XAVIER 5.12c 8m
A fierce direct finish to Leukosia. From the holds at the junction with White Guilt blast direct to the top. Grant Farquhar 13/6/12 Second ascent Marc Burgess 30/6/12.
WHITE PRIVILEGE 5.12a 8m
A direct precursor to White Guilt. Step down and left from the start of Song to the Siren. Climb through the roof with difficulty to join White Guilt at the sloping crimps in the middle of the traverse. Finish with White Guilt. Grant Farquhar 28/10/16
SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 8m
An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets in the wall over the lip of the roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 27 July 2008.
SIRENESQUE 5.11c 8m
Climb the first couple of moves of Song to the Siren to gain the lip of the roof. Instead of continuing to the pockets campus and heel hook the lip of the roof rightwards into Atlantis below the niche and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 4 Nov 2014.
WHITE GUILT 5.11d 8m
Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux. Grant Farquhar 9 August 2008.
BULLET IN THE CHEST 5.12d 8m
The Emmett has landed! From the deep pockets on the above two routes climb direct to the top. Tim Emmett 9 December 2010. Second ascent Ward Byrum 2 July 2011. Video here. Third ascent Grant Farquhar 2012. First on-sight flash by Dave Pickford 29/3/15.
SAMHAIN 5.12a 8m
This eliminate takes the centre of the roof direct. Start in the back of the cave. Use crimpy underclings to reach more poor crimps over the lip. Match a sloper, cut loose and fight the pumpkin. Continue directly through Sirenesque into Song to the Siren and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 31/10/15.
LACHLANN 5.11c 8m
Another eliminate just left of Atlantis. Climb directly on big holds into Song to the Siren just before the big move into Atlantis and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 21/10/21.
ATLANTIS 5.11b 8m
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right-hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. Grant Farquhar 21 October 2006.
LOST CITY 5.11d 8m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf. Subsequenty to be found less dramatic climbed statically.
Ward Byrum, 2007. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 6 Aug 2008.
BAMPOTTERY 5.11c 8m
An eliminate but independent start to Flangemaster Flash. Quintessential bampottery YA BASS! Start off the ledge between Atlantis and Bathos Party. Heid butt the teuchter bampot large roof to join Flangemaster Flash and then Atlantis. Beware of the ledge under the starting moves. Grant Farquhar 13/8/11.
BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 8m
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this. Grant Farquhar 27 March 2008.
FLANGEMASTER FLASH 5.11c 8m
A harder indirect variation on Bathos Party. From the flange hold under the roof make like Flange McFlangenstein along the mini-flangefest leftwards under the lip to join Atlantis at the exit from the niche. Finish up Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 2 June 2010.
ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 8m
Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Step around the rib then climb directly past the obvious rock scar to a horizontal break. Rockover leftwards to the finish of Atlantis. Alternatively and slightly harder, climb the arete directly and step right to the horizontal break. (2008). Grant Farquhar March 2003.
HIGH HEELS 5.12a 8m
A contrived lip trip in the Foot Fetish mould. Follow Romatic Pottery to the junction with Atlantis just before the top out. Heel hook all the way leftwards along the lip to the finish of Lara Croft. A lite 5.11d version (Grant Farquhar 17/10/22) follows the same start to the Xavier top out . Grant Farquhar 19/10/22.
THE PUMP PIMP 5.12a 8m
Essentially High Heels in reverse. Start up Sinister Sister to the exit of Lara Croft. Hand traverse and heel hook the lip rightwards all the way to the finish of Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 26/10/22.
GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 8m
This eliminate route tackles the direct finish to Romantic Pottery. Start as for Romantic Pottery. Climb right of the scar to the horizontal break. Step right and summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate directly to the top of the headwall. Grant Farquhar 2008.
THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb up and slightly right on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange sloper. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct Start (as described) Davie Crawford 12 August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18 April 2009.
ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m
This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except springs low tide. Grant Farquhar 24 October 2006. Second ascent by Davie Crawford 18 April 2009.
SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange sloper (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 28 April 2009.
SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously. Grant Farquhar 31 May 2009.
KISS ASS 5.11b 7m
This variation was formerly known as “The order of the brown nose”. It is one step short of sycophancy. From half way along the rail between Enema of the State and the brown nose of Sycophant, make a long move up to holds in the white scoop up and left of the brown nose. Finish directly. Grant Farquhar 19/5/10.
KICK ASS 5.11d 7m
Kick Ass or get yo ass kicked on this direct start to Kiss Ass. Fierce sequential climbing on sharp pockets. Start on the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Climb just right of Enema of the State through the roof above the LHS of the ledge to gain the rail. Kiss Ass to finish. Grant Farquhar 26/9/10. 2nd ascent Josh Hill 9 July, 2011.
(ORDERING) ENEMA TRAUMA 5.11c 7m
Start up Sycophant and keep traversing to join Barotrauma. John Langston 18/8/10. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 19/8/10.
PERSISTENCE IS FUTILE 5.12a 7m
A direct line up Sycophant that begins in the cave below. Find the huge left hand pocket to begin and lean out to reach for a right seeming jug. Lock you feet next to your left hand and bump to another semi-good right hand crimp. Use left hand intermediates until your able to hit the left hand crimp just before the brown nose on Sycophant. Pray that your feet don’t cut loss and finish up Sycophant. Josh Hill and Ward Byrum 30/6/11.
OLGA 5.12a 7m
Petra’s uglier younger sister. Start up Persistence is Futile to the lip of the roof. Traverse rightwards on the lip to join Barotrauma where it pulls through the roof. Duck rightwards under the lip for a few moves and pull over to join Petra. Marc Burgess 6 July 2012. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 26/5/14.
DANGER IN PARADISE 5.12a 7m
A hard bouldery problem in the gap between Barotrauma and Sycophant. Start up Barotrauma to the triangular hold on the lip of the roof and make one more move to the next rail. Up and left in the middle of the blank white wall is a sloping triangular hold. Use this to gain the traverse of Ordering Enema Trauma. Finish directly through the round hole above. Alan Kline 13 June 2021. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 28/5/22.
BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory to top out directly above the mouth of the cave. For a while a small tree, Uli Stick, grew on the lip which provided a good hold and easier top out but this expired in 2017, RIP Uli Stick. First ascent onsight flashed by Grant Farquhar 7 November 2006.
THE SOUTHPORT SOCKMEN 5.11c 15m traverse
A contrived high-level traverse of the middle section of Clarence Cove. Start up Barotrauma to gain the round cave of the finish of Petra. Traverse leftwards at this level across Sycophant to gain the niche of Enema of the State with hands on the lip of this. Continue leftwards across The Enema Bandit to join Scottish Mating Call at the moves into Atlantis and finish as for this. Grant Farquhar 29/10/22.
Steven Bain and Steven Gawthrop, the Southport Sockmen, were two foot-fetishists in the late 90s in Southport, England. They would approach people in bars and clubs and, literally, buy the socks off of their feet, claiming to be collecting them for charity. When the men’s flat was raided, the police found approx 10,000 socks in deep piles everywhere around the residence, such that one officer commented that it was, ‘like an explosion in a sock factory’. Legend has it that whilst in prison the pair got a job working in the laundry cleaning prisoners’ socks.
SAM’S KRAKEN 5.12a
A footless direct start to Olga. Start as for Barotrama but then move immediately right under the roof and out to an obvious undercut hold in the roof. Continue on pockets to join and finish as for Olga. Fabian Gysi 11 Sep 2016. Second ascent Josh Stephenson 1 Oct 2016.
PETRA 5.11c 7m
Tackles the right-hand side of the cave entrance. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave with a long shouldery move to a good hold above the mouth of the cave. Finish leftwards via the small round cave. Fabian Gysi 30 August 2008 via Barotrauma finish. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 3 Sep 2008. Left hand independent finish as described Fabian Gysi Sep 2008.
PETRAFIED 5.11c 7m
Follow Petra past the crux and then finish rightwards past an obvious round pocket. Grant Farquhar 1 June 2011.
THE FOOT BANDIT 5.12a 7m
Takes on the challenge of the lip traverse rightwards from the finish of Petra. Follow Petrafied to the final moves and then continue rightwards along the lip to a triangular notch. Continue with campus moves and heel hooks to finish at the same point as Captain Caveman. Jake Marchant and Grant Farquhar 13/9/22. This route supersedes The Ming Dyno Nasty which moved rightwards from the round pocket of Petrafied to a horizontal slot and topped out directly above (Grant Farquhar 29/9/11) and Footloose which pulls over at the triangular notch (Jake Marchant Aug 2022).
FOOT FETISH 5.12a 7m
Essentially The Foot Bandit in reverse. Start from the small ledge immediately east of the point. Follow Captain Bastard up and left to join Emperor Ming at the finishing moves. Campus and heel hook leftwards along the lip to join the finish of Petra. Continue leftwards to finish above the small round cave as for Barotrauma. Grant Farquhar 18/9/22. Second ascent Jake Marchant 19/9/22.
EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn’t tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming. Grant Farquhar 25 April 2009. Second ascent John Langston June 2010.
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave. Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof. Traverse the lip leftwards to a massive jug and rockover finish. Davie Crawford 19 September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20 September 2008.
CAPTAIN CANADA 5.11c 5m
Kicks Captain Caverman’s ass. Start up Captain Caveman to where this moves right through the roof. Climb directly through the roof to rejoin Captain Caveman at the finishing moves. Marc Burgess and Grant Farquhar 1 July 2012.
CAPTAIN BASTARD 5.11a 5m
Start up Unga Bunga to the jugs in the groove. Swing left along the lip of the roof into Captain Caveman. Finish up and leftwards. Grant Farquhar 28/6/14. Second ascent Josh Stephenson 1 July 2014.
UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping west under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing east from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above. Grant Farquhar 12 August 2009.
THE TRAVERSES
The next section describes the fun that can be had on the eliminate traverses which start on one route or another and finish somewhere else with little or no new climbing. If you start getting involved in these then you are definitely suffering from rock fever.
LEFT TO RIGHT
LACTIC ACID TEST 5.12c 35m traverse
The penultimate left to right traverse. Follow Lactic Acid Trip to finish as for The Ming Dyno Nasty. Grant Farquhar 28 May 2014
LACTIC ACID BATH 5.12c 35m traverse
Seeks out the most difficult link up. Start as for Sinister Sister on the ledge left of the rib of Lara Croft. Follow Sinister Sister to gain the handrail of Lara Croft. Reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren and follow this to the shake out before the final roof of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call to cross Enema of the State. (Ordering) Enema Trauma leads to a shake out just before the finishing moves. Traverse rightwards across the lip of the roof into Petra and reverse this to the ledge. Grant Farquhar 7 June 2011.
AFRIKAN BABY 5.12b 27m traverse
A precursor to Lactic Acid Trip. Start at Song to the Siren, climb to the rest before the exit of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call, cross Enema of the State and finish with (Ordering) Enema Trauma. Leeroy Beeby 11 November 2016.
LACTIC ACID TRIP 5.12b 30m traverse
The most logical left to right traverse. Follow Lactic Ocean to the rest before the exit of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call to cross Enema of the State and continue as for (Ordering) Enema Trauma to finish. Grant Farquhar 23/9/10.
LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 15m traverse
A good introduction to the traverses. Follow Ambergris to Lara Croft. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 9 Sep 2008.
RIGHT TO LEFT
SHOOT TO KILL 5.13b 70m
The longest and most sustained endurance traverse possible in Clarence Cove. Follow Poopenshooten all the way to join Lara Croft at the handrail. Shake out here before reversing Poopenshooten to finish as for Lactic Acid Test/ The Ming Dyno Nasty. Dave Pickford (on-sight flash) 29/3/15.
MENTAL SLAVERY 5.12d 35m traverse
The ultimate right to left traverse adds the Sinister Sister finish to Poopenshooten. Emancipate yourself as follows. Start as for Petra on the sea-level ledge right of the mouth of the exit cave. Climb the crux of Petra and continue leftwards above the lip of the cave to big holds and a shake out on Barotrauma. Continue traversing leftwards to the brown nose of Sycophant. Reverse this route along the handrail into Enema of the State and onwards to join and follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis just before its finishing moves. Reverse Atlantis leftwards under the massive roof into a niche where Song to the Siren joins Atlantis. Reverse Song to the Siren to the deep pockets on White Guilt. Follow White Guilt leftwards (crux) to join Lara Croft at the handrail. From the LHS of the handrail finish as for Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 25 May 2014.
POOPENSHOOTEN 5.12d 35m traverse
The penultimate right-to-left traverse. Same start as Base Humping and continue as for Clucking to top out on Lara Croft ‘with the fingertips gripping the phosphorus overhang and the fingers of the other hand feeling the moist labia, maybe probing a little’. This route contains no new climbing and doesn’t have a single move beyond 11d. It will still have you screaming: ‘Lick my Ass.’ Rack: Nuts, strapon, buttplug. John Langston 17 Oct 2010. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 22/6/11. Onsighted by Dave Pickford 27/3/15.
BASE HUMPING 5.12a 25m traverse
Another very sustained 25m right-to-left traverse. Start up Petra into Petrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to the crux section of Enema of the State. Don’t even think about downclimbing this to the big jug and a rest. Continue immediately leftwards via the only new moves on the route into Scottish Mating Call to finish as for Atlantis. If you climb this route in shorts during a hurricane the experience is like the sensation of 15,000 angels blowing really gently on your scrotum, it’s very spiritual. Grant Farquhar 29 August 2010 (Hurricane Danielle).
ROCKET IN THE HEAD 5.13b 25m traverse
Links up the most difficult start and finish in Clarence Cove. A power endurance testpiece. Start up Persistence is Futile to gain the brown nose of Sycophant. Follow Poopenshooten to finish as for Bullet in the Chest. Dave Pickford (onsight flash) 29/3/15.
ROCKETEER 5.13a 25m traverse
Another power endurance testpiece linking the start of Persistence is Futile to Xavier. Dave Pickford (onsight flash) 31/3/15.
CLUCKING 5.12b 25m traverse
The counter diagonal to Lactic Ocean gives a 25m traverse. Start from the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Reverse this and then Song to the Siren leftwards to encounter White Guilt at the deep pockets, finish along this and Lara Croft. Hardcore, f*cking hardcore. Remember, we are climbers who f*ck, not f*ckers who climb. Grant Farquhar 25 April 2010.
CLUCKERY 5.12b 25m traverse
Start via Clucking, exit via Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 8 May 2014.
LINK UPS
THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c
Start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves. Grant Farquhar 6 June 2009.
BARF 5.11b
Barotrauma to Petrafied. Josh Hill 5 June, 2011. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 9 June, 2011.
(ORDERING) ENEMA PETRA 5.11d
(Ordering) Enema Trauma to finish by going down on Petra. Grant Farquhar May 2011.
SONG TO THE STATE 5.11c
Start as for Song to the Siren and finish as for Enema of the State. Grant Farquhar 23/8/11.
SURF BURGLAR 5.11d
Start as for White Privilege and finish as for Lactic Ocean. Named after that morning’s surf session which involved getting past the geriatric nazi manning the gate on the private road leading to the only surf break working in Bermuda on that day. Grant Farquhar 4/11/16 (49th birthday)
LARA SISTER 5.11b
Follow Lara Croft to the handrail, traverse left and finish up Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 30/4/09.
SINISTER CROFT 5.11a
Start up Sinister Sister to the handrail and finish up Lara Croft. Grant Farquhar 8/4/10.
FLANGE ARMSTRONG 5.12a 15m
Yet another pointless but sustained variation. Follow Flangemaster Flash to the junction with Atlantis. Milk the strenuous no-hands rest in the niche before finishing by Clucking. Grant Farquhar 20/6/10.
STRONG SISTER 5.12a
Flange Armstrong to finish with Cluckery. Grant Farquhar 9 June 2014.
ODE TAE A FART 5.11b
Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Downclimb Atlantis. Grant Farquhar 9/July/11.
TAXIDERMIA 5.11c
Start up the first couple of moves of Atlantis. Follow the hanging rail rightwards across Bampottery to join Bathos Party under the roof. Finish as for this. Grant Farquhar 1 Oct 16.
HARUSPICY TIMES 5.11c
Start along Sirenesque into Atlantis. Finish as for the above route. Grant Farquhar 2 Oct 16.
NERYS 5.11d
Reverse Sirenesque to finish with White Guilt. Grant Farquhar 5 Nov 14.
NERYSISTER 5.11d
Reverse Sirenesque to finish via Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 5 Nov 14.
NERYSIREN 5.11d
A circuitous trip around the Atlantis cave.Reverse Sirenesque into Song to the Siren and finish up this. Grant Farquhar 8 Nov 14.
WHITE SISTER 5.11d 8m
White Guilt to Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 8 May 2014.
LEUKOSISTER 5.11d 8m
Leukosia to Sinister Sister. Grant Farquhar 23/6/11.
PET TRAUMA 5.11c 7m
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level. Grant Farquhar 14 May 2009.
PETRA/SYCOPHANT 5.11c
Start up Petra. Reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with Sycophant. Alan Kline 12 June 2021.
PET ENEMA 5.11c
Start up Petra. Reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with an Enema of the State. Grant Farquhar 2010.
PROFESSOR X 5.12c 8m
Start up Bullet and finish up Xavier. Grant Farquhar 30/6/12.
PROCTALGIA 5.11c 7m
Start sycophantically. From the brown nose make a long reach diagonally up and left to Kiss Ass. Grant Farquhar 15/7/12.
GAY BAR 5.11c 7m
Start up Barotrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with Proctalgia. Grant Farquhar & Marc Burgess 19/7/12.
LACTIC CITY 5.12a 8m
Lats Lactic Ocean to Lost City. Grant Farquhar 27/5/12.
SONG TO THE CITY 5.11d 8m
Song to the Siren to Lost City. Grant Farquhar 26/5/12.
COPENHAGEN 5.11d 8m
Start with Lachlann to finish with Lost City arrive in the city of the lakes. Grant Farquhar 1/April/22.
GLASGOW 5.11d 8m
Start with Bampottery to finish with Lost City and arrive at bam city. Grant Farquhar 29/5/12.
STOCKHOLM 5.11d 8m
Start as for Flangemaster Flash to Atlantis. Exit via Lost City to arrive in flange city. Grant Farquhar 29/5/12.
VEGAS 5.11d 8m
Bathos Party to Lost City. Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.
VENICE 5.11d 8m
Romantic Pottery to Lost City. Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.
RIGA 5.11d 8m
Scottish Mating Call to Lost City. Grant Farquhar 30/5/12.
VANCOUVER 5.12a
Follow Base Humping to finish via Lost City and arrive in Base City. Grant Farquhar 4 June 2012.
AMSTERDAM 5.11d 8m
Follow Lost City and then High Heels to the Xavier finish. Grant Farquhar 17/10/22.
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