Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection: This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk. Please read the information about the in-situ protection on the safety page.
The Pump Room with Grant Farquhar and Jeff Achey on Ahab. Photo Andrew Burr.
The Pump Room is a cave found just to the south of The Great Head in St David’s. From the car park at the gun battery, find the purple brick path which eventually leads to the monument for those lost at sea. From the metal gate, follow the purple brick path for approximately 20 yards at which point it starts to gently curve to the left. Turn right off the brIcks and head downhill on a wide grassy path through the bushes (cleared in early 2011 by the Parks Department). At a fork take the left branch which curves down towards the sea. At this point you should be able to see The Pump Room straight ahead. A short but easy downclimb leads to ledges at sea-level. This cliff has the best rock of any sport area so far developed in Bermuda. There is potential for more hard routes. The routes are described right to left.
Inside the Pump Room cave. Photo Grant Farquhar.
BLACK SEAL 5.13b 12m
If you’re looking for a white whale, it’s not here, this here be a Black Seal. The obvious crack system splitting the cave. This route is mostly jugs for whatever that’s worth. There are some occasional finger locks that make the route possible. Five bolts and one thread. Desperately steep, incredibly powerful, with the best no-hands rest EVAR! in the middle make this route truly fantastic and well worth the effort despite the length. John Langston 29/3/10. Much thanks to Davie Crawford for many patient belays. video
John Langston on Black Seal. Photo Grant Farquhar.
AHAB 5.11b 10m
Very steep, pumpy three star climbing on massive jugs, this line starts left of the mouth of the (very deep) cave and follows the pale streak to finish directly above the cave. Campus and heel-hook past five threads to an in-situ lower off. 11b but feels like 12b if the humidity is high. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 24/4/08. Second ascent by John Langston November 2009. Threads replaced winter 2014/15.
PUMP LOVIN CRIMINALS 5.11a 10m $250 fine
Climbs the wall directly. Start just left of the mouth of the cave. Clip the first thread of Mako, step right then continue past two more to an in-situ lower off. You don’t have the full tick unless you get busted by the police for speeding on the way to the Swizzle. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 21/2/09.
Angus Davidson making the tricky second clip on Ahab. Photo Gordon Davidson.
Angus Davidson versus Ahab. Photo Gordon Davidson.
COCK PUSH UPS 5.11b 10m
Stamina is required for this stiff link up. Start up PLC to the second thread before making a premature exit rightwards into Ahab. Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Mark Burgess 19/11/11.
Grant Farquhar on the First Ascent of Cock Push Ups. Photo Davie Crawford.
MAKO 5.10a 10m
Start at the base of Pump Loving Criminals. This excellent route provides very steep (but surprisingly amenable) climbing directly up the wall above, with some good moves to clear the roof. Three in-situ threads. Davie Crawford and Grant Farquhar 24/2/11.
QUEEQUEG 5.8 10m
This climb takes the groove in the buttress left of the cave on very good white rock. Start from the ledge below the cave. Traverse leftwards off the ledge with instant exposure to climb the white streak. Clip the threads on Prow of the Pequod and Mako to protect. At the top you can lower of the belay of Mako. Grant Farquhar 13/4/08.
Angus Davidson warming up on Mako. Photo Gordon Davidson.
Robert Davidson making short work of Mako. Photo Gordon Davidson.
THE PROW OF THE PEQUOD 5.9 12m
All aboard me hearties! This route starts left of Queequeg and tackles a whale of a roof and the wall above. The start is accessed by a short scramble down to a ledge. Strenuous moves over the horizontal roof allow access to the wall and prow above. Trend slightly leftwards to finish near the edge of the prow. 5 in-situ threads. Belay on the poop deck above on two in- situ threads. Abseil descent required unless you are game for the bushwhack from hell- not recommended. Davie Crawford & Caroline Stockdale 28/2/09.
Davie Crawford on the first ascent of The Prow of the Pequod. Photo Grant Farquhar.
PROW OF THE PEQUOD (RIGHT HAND START) 5.6 10m.
This easier variation shares Queequeg’s start. Step left off the big ledge and follow the right to left rising traverse onto the prow above. 5 in- situ threads. Belay and abseil descent as above. Davie Crawford, Charlotte Best & Caroline Stockdale 28/2/09.
Required reading in the Pump Room. Photo Grant Farquhar.