This slightly bizarrely named area is found on North Shore Road opposite West Pembroke School. From Ladies Chambers park walk down to the rock arch on the left.
There are two ways of approaching the crag (i) low level east to west traverse for 30m starting on the left (west) side of the rock arch (5.8 with good rests) or (ii) swim through the arch and turn left, gaining dry ledges on the edge of this overhanging buttress (dry bags etc required).
This venue is best at mid-to-high tide. Low tide should be avoided (ask John Langston).
Some other minor nearby venues are also described.
Dave Pickford attempting an un-climbed project at Ladies Chambers. Photo Grant Farquhar.
CEOL GEOBAG 5.11c 10m
Climb the right arete of the cave to the ceiling. Move left on the lip and follow the soaring flakeline which gives spectacular horizontal roof climbing to jugs and a mantelshelf finish. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 22/5/10.
The first ascent of Ceol Geobag. Photo Davie Crawford.
TITTENSHATTEN 5.11b R 10m
The obvious horizontal break in the roof above the ledges. Falling off the wall below the roof is not an option. Has a pair of large dirty jugs on it. Auchtang fur deutscher klettern machen die shiza kino hier. Grant Von Fartquaff und Josh Berg 18/6/11.
CLAM-O-RAMA 5.10d 10m
Satisfaction is guaranteed with this pumpy little minx. Start on the right side of the steeply overhanging, juggy wall, a few metres right of the starting moves of Ceol Geobag. Jump off. Davie Crawford 26/5/10. Video of First Ascent here
Davie Crawford on the first ascent of Clam-O-Rama.
CATFISH ARETE 5.10d 10m
Climbs the blunt arete right of the cave in the middle of the buttress. Start around the RHS of the arete. Hug the jugs to the top. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 26/5/10 via the start of Clam-O-Rama. Direct start (as described) 18/6/11.
FANNY CRADDOCK 5.10d 10m
Start off the right hand side of the ledge. Step right around the right arete and climb the overhanging wall on massive but fragile holds to the crux at the very top. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 22/5/10.
Ladies Chambers topo by Grant Farquhar. Photo by Davie Crawford.
This short buttress of fairly poor rock can be identified by the prominent white streak approx 200 yards west of Ladies Chambers.
The first ascent of Hippocampus. Photo Davie Crawford.
KRUSTY KLAWS 5.10c
Climb the arete to the right of the shallow cave. Traverse left over to the nose of the buttress and top out the same as Hippocampus. Timothy Claude 15/7/15.
HIPPOCAMPUS 5.10c 5m
Climbs the overhanging wall left of the white streak. From the ledge at the base of the white streak, step left on to the overhanging wall. Climb this on pockets to flat friable holds. Traverse a few moves right onto the nose of the buttress and climb this on increasingly loose rock to the tree at the top. Beware the jutting reef shelves underneath. Grant Farquhar 26/5/10.
A Bermuda Seahorse was encountered immediately prior to the first ascent of Hippocampus. Photo Grant Farquhar.
SPINNING WHEEL CRAG
The ‘Spinning Wheel’ as seen from just West of the crag on North Shore Rd.
This crag is situated about 400m East of Ladies Chambers on the North Shore. Driving West on North Shore Road the rusty old tower and wheel is visible on your right. The crag forms a small cove, below and left of the rusty wheel and provides another venue on the North Shore, but nothing worth writing home about.
WHEELS ON FIRE 5.9 7m
This route tackles the white wall to the right of the deepest point of the cove and finishes at the fence post above. Davie Crawford 3/6/10.
CHEWSTICK 5.10a 5m
The arete and wall left of the cave leads to a sketchy mantel.
Grant Farquhar 3 June 2010.
Spinning Wheel Crag. Photo Davie Crawford.
30m west of Ducking Stool Park is an overhanging roof capped prow with a white streak up the middle.
BURN THE WITCH 5.10c 7m
Access from the right to ledges and climb the white streak to turn the roof on the right. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 3 June, 2010.