Follow Tucker’s Town Road until you come upon a massive beach (you have made it). The rock quality is varied from complete garbage to pretty strong, but this is dependent on what section of the beach you go to. Water levels are not as big of a factor in this area compared to other areas due to the size of the beach. Make sure to bring tape because the rock is like sandpaper and will rip skin.
The bouldering is at the west end of this beach. The rock is good, the landings are sandy and low tide is required. The problems are described right to left. Topos below.
Windsor Beach Topo by Grant Farquhar.
Windsor Beach Topo by Timothy Claude
Pink: Tall Man’s Tale V1
Sit start, and then follow the nice pockets all the way to the top. A good warm up route.
Timothy Claude 5th November 2015
NYM V0
The open groove right of Pistol.
Grant Farquhar 2009.
Yellow: PISTOL V1
The flake crack left of the groove. A nice little warm up climb on pretty solid rock. Sit start on two somewhat positive holds, then move up the crack.
Grant Farquhar 2009. Rediscovered as Lucky 7 by Sam Mir 31st October 2015.
FALSTAFF V2
The weakness in the roof left of Pistol.
Grant Farquhar 2009.
Dark Blue: BACK TO BACK V2
Appears to be identical to the previous route. Sit start on two finger pocket, move up to the base of the crack, and then follow the crack to the big jug.
Timothy Claude 31/10/15
Green: NO MAN’S LAND V2
Sit start on the same holds as “Lucky 7”, move up to more positive holds, reach up into a finger pocket, and then mini dyno to a jug. Slightly tricky, but looks cool and is fun.
Timothy Claude 31/10/15
Turquoise: R.I.P TIDE V4
Same start as “Gone with the Skin”, climb up to the crack and move right along slopers until you reach a crap hold, from the hold move over the cave onto the opposite side, and from there move up the face on various holds. The quality of rock varies from good to crap, then good again.
Timothy Claude 7th November, 2015
Red: GONE WITH THE SKIN V5/4
Solid rock, but get ready to lose a bit of skin. Sit start with the left hand in a solid pocket, and right hand on a crimpish hold, climb up slightly then traverse right around the boulder, and finish up “No Man’s Land”.
Timothy Claude 5th November, 2015
Photo by Timothy Claude.
Yellow: LOST FORTUNE V1
The rock is not the best, but not the worst, and it is high enough to give you a tingle sensation, but not enough to make you tinkle. Start on side pulls, and follow the crack to the top. Down climb on the right.
Timothy Claude 13/12/15
Red: ENDLESS WEALTH V1
Climb on the crack until it ends, head to the right side with slopers and crimps because it is slightly harder and more fun compared to the left side which is like going up a set of stairs. Slightly harder than “Lost Fortune”, but is more fun.
Timothy Claude 13/12/15
Photo by Timothy Claude
Red: BIG NIBBLES V5
The route starts with your left hand in a 3 finger pocket and your right hand on a side pull, move up with your right hand onto a pinch and then follow suit with your left, from the 2 pinches you have to match on a positive crimp and a monkey fist like hold to your right, reach up and match on the bird’s nest pocket, and then plow through a slab style climb to the top. The rock quality varies throughout the route, and is sketchy at the top. The route is roughly 15-18 feet.
Joshua Stephenson 20/12/15
GOLDENEYE BEACH
Continue past Windsor Beach to, literally, the end of the road. The bouldering area is at the east end and dependent on low tide to access.
GREENFINGER V2
Sitting start below the vertical seam between the deep cave and the smaller cave to the left. Climb the seam. Walk off left.
Grant Farquhar & Pussy Galore 16/6/10
LAWNRAKER V2
Sitting start on the left arete of the small cave left of the deep cave. Traverse the lip rightwards and continue under the roof to pockets and a vertical crack/groove. Finish up this. Walk off left.
Grant Farquhar & Holly Goodhead 16/6/10
LADY FINGERS V2
Probably shares ground with the above problem. Start on the right side of the shallow cave underneath the roof on the pillar. Climb out through roof, and go straight up the arete.
Timothy Claude 7/7/15
Sam on Lady Fingers. Photo by Timothy Claude
LIGHTING STRIKES TWICE V2
Sit start on the far right of the overhang which is perpendicular to the long stretch. Traverse left, and climb the arete at the edge of the corner.
Sam 7/7/15
Climb De Rock 