Deep Bay

Deep Bay itself has a lot of rock but unfortunately the water under most of it is very shallow. There are two DWS venues here. The first area is Full Fathom Five Buttress which constitutes the steep white buttress of good rock at the western point of Deep Bay. The second venue is Low Pressure Wall which is found east of the steps into Deep Bay. Google Map

FULL FATHOM FIVE BUTTRESS

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Svetlana Leksina on Ariel’s Song. Photo Grant Farquhar.

Full fathom five thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made;
Those are pearls that were his eyes:
Nothing of him that doth fade,
But doth suffer a sea-change
Into something rich and strange.
Ariel’s Song, The Tempest.

Walk down from Admiralty Park above to gain the detached promontory adjacent to the white buttress. There is a prominent overhanging arete in the middle of the buttress.
 

FULL FATHOM FIVE TEN 5.10a 35m traverse

This is the full traverse of the wall and is a 3* climb. The water is deep and the rock is good. Climb down the groove in the east side of the promontory to sea level. Traverse eastwards at sea level on amazing honeycombed rock to an impasse at a deep cave (higher line also possible). Swing across the cave either high (easier) or low to gain a resting place at sea level on the other side. Climb up and leftwards to pass the overhanging arete at mid-height (crux). Continue leftwards along the shelf to gain easy ground and a path to the top. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 27 October 2008.

FULL FATHOM FORTY FIVE 5.10b 35m traverse

The low level traverse finish to Full Fathom Five Ten. Follow this to the resting ledge before the arete. Continue at sea level all the way past the arete to the end. Grant Farquhar 4 November 2012 (on his 45th birthday).


DEEP THROAT 5.9 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Step back right and climb the arete to the top. Ward Byrum & Nick Strong 2005.


DEEP DOWN IN DIS CUSTARD 5.10c 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Climb the steep white streak right of the cave and left of the arete to the jutting overhang and a spicy top out. Grant Farquhar 23/3/09. Second ascent Davie Crawford 20/5/10.

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Svetlana Leksina on Ariel’s Song. Photo Grant Farquhar.

ARIEL’S SONG 5.10a 8m

This excellent deep water solo provides the best introduction to DWS in Bermuda. It takes the easiest line traversing the white buttress. Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Follow the right edge of the cave to a juggy top out. Jazmyne Watson 2014


DEEP FRIED PIZZA 5.10a 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Take the low level traverse option through the cave to gain the left edge. Climb the left edge to the apex of the cave and top out as for Ariel’s Song. Grant Farquhar 2 Sep 2014.

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Chemmyslav Yentas near the top of Ariel’s Song. Photo Grant Farquhar.


DEEP FRIED MARS BAR 5.10a 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten past the deep cave to the rest before the arete. Climb the white streak left of the cave past a prominent mars bar shaped pocket to the tree above. Grant Farquhar 9th July, 2009.


DEEPER LOVE 5.10a 8m

Follow the Full Fathom Five Ten traverse past the cave and two metres past the start of Deep Fried Mars Bar. This enjoyable line takes a direct line up the gently overhanging wall on positive holds and very good rock. Davie Crawford 14/11/09.


DEEP IN DIS PEAR 5.10d 8m

 
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Traverse left to the base of the arete at sea level. Climb the tricky arete with continued interest to the little pinnacle on top. Grant Farquhar 27/10/08.
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Dale Robinson finding himself Deep in Dis Pear. Photo Grant Farquhar.

 


OUT TO LUNCH 5.10a 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the no-hands resting shelf beyond the arete of Deep in Dis Pear. Finish directly up the steep wall above the shelf. Timothy Claude & Sam Mir 2014.


BALLS DEEP 5.9 8m

Start from the water. Climb the wall left of the arete to a desperate grovel onto the half-height ledge and junction with Full Fathom Five Ten. Continue past a small tree to the top. Nick Strong and Ward Byrum 2005.


20M AND COUNTING 5.10c 8m

Approx 20m left of the arete of the buttress is another overhanging point closer in to the beach in Deep Bay. Start from the water. Climb out of the water at the base of the overhanging arete (crux). Continue up and then right to a small tree in decomposing rock. Jump off. Timothy Claude 2014. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 2 Sep 2014.

LOW PRESSURE WALL

This crag is situated on the east side of Deep Bay and is best accessed from the steps leading down into Deep Bay from the bus stop on North Shore Road. From the base of the steps swim eastwards for approximately 200 yds to a dry ledge at the base of concrete steps. All the routes are accessed via the traverse of Hurricane Force or by swimming. The land above the crag is private, please do not top out through the bushes. Jump off into deep water.

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Grant Farquhar on Tropical Depression. Photo Andrew Burr.

HURRICANE FORCE 5.8 60m sea level traverse

From the concrete steps traverse eastwards at sea level at the base of the steep crag and above deep water to gain a dry ledge in the cave at the eastern extremity of the crag. Mostly above deep water but there is the odd ledge and reef to beware. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9.


CYCLONE CRACK 5.8 15m

The short, overhanging hairline crack on the right- hand side of this crag features an unpleasant bushwhacking section at its top- before continuing leftwards to the tree. Davie Crawford 25/9/9.


TROPICAL DEPRESSION 5.9 15m

Follow Hurricane Force for 30m until below the large tree. Climb directly to the tree. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9.


BEAUFART SCALE 5.10b 15m

This very good route climbs directly up the gently overhanging wall via a distinctive triangular, jutting jug. Best climbed in a force 8 to 12. Follow the Hurricane Force traverse 3m to the left of Tropical Storm to a wall below a left facing niche corner and the triangular jug. A gusty finish on the pine needle- covered finishing ledge is guaranteed (try not to follow through). Jump off by the tree or continue to the top if your winds are favourable. Davie Crawford 19/8/09.


THE EYE OF THE STORM 5.10d 15m

Climbs through the scoop in the middle of the crag. Start 3m left of Beaufart Scale, right of the ledge underneath the big roof right of Shark Oil gained via Hurricane Force or a swim to the ledge. Climb steeply on good rock to the scoop. Make a perplexing and crucial mantelshelf move into the depression to gain a precarious no-hands rest in the eye of the storm. Continue on friable rock directly above to a no-hands rest right of the large thread in the break above. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. Those in search of further titillation can continue through the roofs above via some unexpected stalactites to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 19/8/09.


SHARK OIL 5.10c 15m

Forecasts an ascent up the left arete of the crag which lies between caves at mid-height on either side. Follow Hurricane Force to ledges before the big steep cliff. Continue to the cave right of the left arete with a ledge underneath and step left to the ledge in the cave left of the arete (the finish of Hurricane Force). Gain the arete from the left and continue steeply to a no-hands ledge left of an obvious large thread in the break. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. The masochists can continue through the roofs above to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off. Grant Farquhar and Davie Crawford 19/8/09.

Deep Bay - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Grant Farquhar on Shark Oil. Photo Andrew Burr.