Tsunami Wall

Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection: This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk. Please read the information about the in-situ protection on the safety page.

This cliff looks like it has escaped from Thailand. It is a very steep cave that gives amazing climbing on tufas. It is situated in Hamilton Parish just off the Railway Trail that heads west from Duck Puddle Park. The climbing is very condition dependent. Climb here when the wind is out of the north but not blowing too hard otherwise it can be dripping. Tsunami Wall also has some DWS routes.

BIRTH STONE 5.6 10m

The first route exits the cave through a small window high up in the apex. Start from near the top of the slope that leads down into the main cave. Climb up the wall behind a stalactite and continue passing a thread to easier ground leading to the tight exit hole. Grant Farquhar Lead Rope Solo 4/4/22.

THE MAN FROM ATLANTIS 5.11a 15m

This route climbs the groove and headwall left of the pillar of Kanagawa. It is possible but unsporting to escape the line leftwards in places. Start from the window underneath the pillar. Climb up into the groove/cave feature and bridge and palm up this to gain good holds over the lip. Finish rightwards up the spectacular headwall on massive incut holds. Three threads protect. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 12/March/09.

KANAGAWA 5.11d 15m

This flyweight looking number packs a heavyweight punch. It takes the beautiful pillar forming the left hand side of the main cave. The move past the first bolt is the crux and it keeps you on your toes until the bell. Punch past 3 more bolts and duck the KO at the large thread to top out in the apex of the cave. Belay bolts on the edge of the large skylight. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11/October/08. Four titanium glue-in bolts 22/10/09.

LA CUCARACHA 5.11a 15m

Grab your sombrero and dance your way to the skylight above. This route takes the left side of the vertical wall in the main Tsunami cave. Start just right of the pillar taken by Kanagawa. Sustained face climbing & bridging leads to a brief respite, before a tricky top out. It is unusual for a Bermuda route with thin moves on generally small holds. A huge, unimpressed cockroach spectated on the FA near the top. Four marine grade glue in bolts. Belay on bolts at top. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 1/February/09. Second ascent John Langston Nov 2009.

PIPELINE 5.11d 15m

This route gains the apex of the cave via the leftmost equipped line and then exits via the seaward lip. Start in the bowels of the cave and wrestle with stalactites up and rightwards to cross Journey to the Centre of the Earth. Continue out the horizontal roof on smaller stalactites and swing across to a boss of rock on the other side of the cave. Wide bridging and back-and-footing leads horizontally leftwards to exit as for Kanagawa. Three titanium bolts and five threads. Grant Farquhar and Dreas Ratteray 23/3/22.

BACKDOOR 5.11d 15m

This is the right-hand backdoor exit to the above route. Start up Pipeline to swing across to the boss of rock on the other side of the cave. Delicate smearing rightwards gains the last bolt and finish of La Cucaracha. Four bolts and four threads. Grant Farquhar lead rope solo 28/3/22.

JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH 5.12a 25m

A meandering journey through very overhanging territory in the steep wall which forms the right hand side of the main cave to eventually finish through the large square skylight in the apex of the cave. Climb up, left and inwards past four glue-in bolts and six threads. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi, 14/12/08. Second ascent John Langston 29/11/09. Bolts replaced winter 09/10.

THIRD DEGREE BURNS NIGHT 5.12a 15m

This is the central line in the steep right hand wall of the cave. From the base of Journey climb past four threads and three bolts to the top. Stalactite wrestling interspersed with no-hands rests. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 24/1/09. Re-equipped with titanium bolts and new threads Feb 2022.

UNDER THE VOLCANO 5.12a 15m

This brilliant route gives three star climbing through wildly overhanging tufa festooned territory following the direct line of six glue-in bolts and two threads in the steep wall right of Third Degree Burns Night. Belay on a bolt thread over the lip. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11/October/08. Second ascent on-sight flashed by John Langston November 2009.

CUMBRAE VIEJA 5.11d 15m

Is the substance of the first of the pillars of wisdom right of the main cave. Climb the pillar past three bolts and three threads. Bolt and thread belays over the lip. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 30/11/08. Three titanium glue-in bolts placed Spring 09.

SUNDOGS 5.12b 15m

Bermuda’s answer to Raindogs is the left hand finish to Cumbrae Vieja. Follow Cumbrae Vieja past one bolt and two threads to the third thread at the large stalactite. Clip the bolt above and head diagonally leftwards on steep ground past the blobby stalactite via one more bolt to the top out. Bolt and thread belays over the lip. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 19/3/09. Re-equipped with stainless steel glue-in bolt 4/April/10.

ROGUE MALE 5.10c 15m

This excellent route climbs the golden wall between Cumbrae Vieja and Auricle Wall. Step through the window behind Cumbrae Vieja to the starting ledge. Climb steeply past three threads and one titanium glue-in bolt to the final crack. Grant Farquhar lead rope solo 15/3/22.

AURICLE WALL 5.10a 15m

The second pillar, with its intimidating capping roof, provides tremendous climbing. Climb the pillar and wall, via a curious ear-like flake, to the obvious climax. (Three in- situ threads replaced March 2022). Davie Crawford & Eloise Pitts Crick 14/12/08.

SUBSONIC WAVE 5.7 15m

An excellent line on perfect rock, this route takes the third pillar. Step right to clip the thread on El Terremoto before making steep moves up the pillar to an easing at a tufa formation. Three further threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 23/10/08. Threads replaced March 2022.

The fourth (and final) ‘shark fin’ pillar on this section of the crag provides the following two routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish).

EL TERREMOTO 5.7 15m

The left-hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves before an easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. Three threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford, Bryan Caldwell and Caroline Stockdale 12/January/09. Threads replaced March 2022.

ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 15m

The better of the two ‘shark fin’ routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right-hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. Three threads replaced March 2022. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford & Bryan Caldwell 12/January/09.