Tsunami Wall and St George’s

Tsunami Wall is better known for sports climbing but in the heat of summer there are some nice DWS routes that can make a change from the usual venues.

The first route lies well to the left of the main cave.

Around 20m east of Sunflowers is a short, clean cut arete which gives a DWS boulder problem.

SILK V1

Down climb a groove and traverse a wall leftwards to the arete (beware of fragile holds).

Davie Crawford, 19/3/09.


SUNFLOWERS 5.6 15m

A very nice deep water solo up the left arete of the wall left of the main cave. Walk through the window underneath the pillar of Kanagawa. Traverse leftwards on a horizontal rail (ledges underneath this bit) and continue to gain lovely orangey brown flowstone rock on the arete. Climb the arete past a detached ear feature to sharp rock and the top. Grant Farquhar, 30/11/08.


RUBEN 5.10b X 15m

This DWS is based on the stalactite between Sunflowers and the sports climb of The Mangina from Atlantis. Start as for Sunflowers to the large ledge before the arete. Gain the front of the stalactite from the left (serious above the ledge). Step right then continue on massive holds to the top. Along with the objective danger of hitting the ledge, there are also reefs underneath in places. Snorkelling first to inspect the reefs and climbing at high tide recommended. This route might be better equipped as a sport climb. Grant Farquhar 11/10/09.


Warning

The remaining routes are all slightly serious deep water solos due to the reef shelf underneath that quickly drops into deep water. An uncontrolled fall might result in a reef strike. It is therefore important to climb in control and to jump out in the event of a fall. Snorkelling to inspect the landing zone and high tide are recommended.

AURICLE WALL DWS version 5.8 R 15m 

Climb the second pillar to the ledge. Instead of climbing the final roof (which is above a sea-level ledge, not water) crap out rightwards along the ledge. Grant Farquhar 22/6/22.

ROGUE WAVE 5.8 R 15m

Bridge up the stalactite chimney to the ledge on Auricle Wall. Finish through the roof directly above the ledge and right of Auricle Wall. Grant Farquhar 22/6/22.


SUBSONIC WAVE 5.7 R 15m

An excellent line on perfect rock, this route takes the third pillar. Steep moves up the pillar lead to an easing at a tufa formation. Grant Farquhar 22/6/22.

The fourth (and final) ‘shark fin’ pillar in the section of the crag right of the cave provides the following two routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish). Both routes are also equipped as sports climbs. Please see the Tsunami Wall sports climbing page to see how they relate to the other equipped routes.


EL TERREMOTO 5.7 R 15m

The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. There is a narrow section of reef underneath this route that should be easy to clear. Davie Crawford 27/8/09.


ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 R 15m

The better of the two ‘shark fin’ routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. This route has a sizable reef shelf under the crux moves and is consequently quite a serious undertaking. Davie Crawford 27/8/09.


THE SEVENTH PILLAR OF WISDOM 5.9 R 12m

This sound deep water solo climbs the fat stalactite towards the west end of the cliff. From the cave area head westwards at sea level behind the curtain of stalactites to enter the large dry cave. Continue westwards and ascend through a window to gain a ledge on the front face of the large fat stalactite. Climb the pillar through the roof and rock over with interest to gain the ledge system above. Watch out when climbing the final wall as you are above the ledge rather than the water. Grant Farquhar 11/March/09.


THE EIGHTH PILLAR OF FOOLISHNESS 5.7 R 12m

Another deep water solo but one for a high spring tide due to the shelf underneath. It escapes out of the window that gains the base of the pillar of the previous route. From the base of the seventh pillar step rightwards soon easing to finish directly past an obvious thread in the thin rock of the sharp arete above. Grant Farquhar 11/March/09.


RIDE THE TSUNAMI 5.10a R 25m sea-level traverse

This hidden but excellent DWS traverse is safer at high tide. There is reef underneath in places. Start from the base of the seventh pillar. From the window step down to sea level. Head right following the line of least resistance below the horizontal roof around the right angled arete to a cave/corner. Hit the lip rightwards on undercuts and jugs to paler rock on the edge of the bay at the end of the crag. Top out here. Grant Farquhar 2/April/09.


THE NINTH WAVE 5.10b R 12m

A very good DWS for a high tide. Ride the Tsunami to the right angled arete. Climb the left side of the arete to the roof and pull over this on organ pipe stalactites to gain deep caves and a rest. Surf back left before climbing to the top. Grant Farquhar 2/April/09.

Stags Bay

This venue is in Hamilton Parish on the north shore just north of Shelly Bay and not too far from Tsunami Wall. Take West Point Road (marked ‘Old Road’) off North Shore Road just east of Shelly Bay and before Burchall’s Cove. Park near the Railway Trail and follow this east for 100yds to a small bay crossed by old railway bridge supports. There may be an old Bermuda name for this bay but I’ve not been able to find it. The Stag Rocks are just offshore here. The water is only waist deep at high tide.

Dreas Ratteray on the first ascent of Dreas’s Route. Photo Grant Farquhar.

Dreas’s Route 5.9 R

Sea-level traverse in to a sloping ledge. Continue traversing down and left for ten feet and then climb directly to the top. Dreas Ratteray 9 March 2022.

STAGGER LEE 5.9 R

The right-to-left mid-height traverse of the entire wall. Grant Farquhar 9 March 2022.

St George’s Island

The north coast of St George’s has a lot of rock but none of it hangs together as a DWS venue apart from The Boondocks which gives short, steep routes on good rock above shallow water. You definitely need high tide.

THE BOONDOCKS

This venue is found on the seaward side of the cut just west of the oil docks at the fence with ‘Beware of falling rocks’ sign across the railway trail. Closest access point is by taking the first possible right turn off Ferry Road after passing the oil terminal and then walking east through the cut.

DOCKSIDERS 5.10a X 30m sea-level traverse

The sea-level traverse of the entire wall can be done in either direction but is most logical right to left. Start from the point 30m west of the fence across the railway trail. Sea-level traverse eastwards to the neck formed by the next point. Continue across the smooth vertical wall while being careful not to fall off and hit the obvious boulder to a cave/chimney. Continue eastwards below the up routes to the arete at the left-hand side of the wall and top out here.  Grant Farquhar 4/Oct/22.

The up route are described left to right as approached by downclimbing the arete at the left-hand side of the wall and traversing in via the sea-level traverse of Docksiders. You can also easily down climb the cave/chimney.

APOCALYPSE NOW 5.7 R 5m

The obvious overhanging crack. Grant Farquhar. 21/12/12 (Mayan Apocalypse & Winter Solstice).

Grant Farquhar on Apocalypse Now. Photo Climbderock.

THE END IS HIGH 5.10a R 5m

Step right from the base of the overhanging crack to gain a massive jug and finish up the flake above. Grant Farquhar 4/Oct/22.

WILLIAM ESCHATNER 5.10a R 5m

Start from the no-hands ledge at the back of the steepest and highest section. Beam yourself up to the prominent projecting flake on the lip. Grant Farquhar 4/Oct/22.

MILLIWAYS 5.10a R 5m

Steep pockety climbing in the gap between the neighbouring routes. Grant Farquhar 5/Oct/22.

Grant Farquhar on the first ascent of Milliways Photo Climbderock.

LOS ENDOS 5.9 R 5m

Climb the little pillar at the right-hand side of the wall (left of the chimney) to a steep top out. Grant Farquhar 4/Oct/22.

The Boondocks topo. Photo Climbderock.
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