Tsunami Wall is better known for sports climbing but in the heat of summer there are some nice DWS routes that can make a change from the usual venues.
The first route lies well to the left of the main cave.
Around 20m east of Sunflowers is a short, clean cut arete which gives a DWS boulder problem.
Down climb a groove and traverse a wall leftwards to the arete (beware of fragile holds).
Davie Crawford, 19/3/09.
SUNFLOWERS 5.6 15m
A very nice deep water solo up the left arete of the wall left of the main cave. Walk through the window underneath the pillar of Kanagawa. Traverse leftwards on a horizontal rail (ledges underneath this bit) and continue to gain lovely orangey brown flowstone rock on the arete. Climb the arete past a detached ear feature to sharp rock and the top. Grant Farquhar, 30/11/08.
RUBEN 5.10b X 15m
This DWS is based on the stalactite between Sunflowers and the sports climb of The Mangina from Atlantis. Start as for Sunflowers to the large ledge before the arete. Gain the front of the stalactite from the left (serious above the ledge). Step right then continue on massive holds to the top. Along with the objective danger of hitting the ledge, there are also reefs underneath in places. Snorkelling first to inspect the reefs and climbing at high tide recommended. This route might be better equipped as a sport climb. Grant Farquhar 11/10/09.
The remaining routes are all slightly serious deep water solos due to the reef shelf underneath that quickly drops into deep water. An uncontrolled fall might result in a reef strike. It is therefore important to climb in control and to jump out in the event of a fall. Snorkelling to inspect the landing zone and high tide are recommended.
The fourth (and final) ‘shark fin’ pillar in the section of the crag right of the cave provides the following 2 routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish). Both routes are also equipped as sports climbs. Please see the Tsunami Wall sports climbing page to see how they relate to the other equipped routes.
EL TERREMOTO 5.7 R 15m
The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. There is a narrow section of reef underneath this route that should be easy to clear. DWS by Davie Crawford 27/8/09.
ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 R 15m
The better of the two ‘shark fin’ routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. This route has a sizable reef shelf under the crux moves and is consequently quite a serious undertaking. DWS by Davie Crawford 27/8/09.
THE SEVENTH PILLAR OF WISDOM 5.9 R 12m
This sound deep water solo climbs the fat stalactite towards the west end of the cliff. From the cave area head westwards at sea level behind the curtain of stalactites to enter the large dry cave. Continue westwards and ascend through a window to gain a ledge on the front face of the large fat stalactite. Climb the pillar through the roof and rock over with interest to gain the ledge system above. Watch out when climbing the final wall as you are above the ledge rather than the water. Grant Farquhar, 11/3/09.
THE EIGHTH PILLAR OF FOOLISHNESS 5.7 R 12m
Another deep water solo but one for a high spring tide due to the shelf underneath. It escapes out of the window that gains the base of the pillar of the previous route. From the base of the seventh pillar step rightwards soon easing to finish directly past an obvious thread in the thin rock of the sharp arete above. Grant Farquhar, 11/3/09.
RIDE THE TSUNAMI 5.10a R 25m sea-level traverse
This hidden but excellent DWS traverse is safer at high tide. There is reef underneath in places. Start from the base of the seventh pillar. From the window step down to sea level. Head right following the line of least resistance below the horizontal roof around the right angled arete to a cave/corner. Hit the lip rightwards on undercuts and jugs to paler rock on the edge of the bay at the end of the crag. Top out here. Grant Farquhar 2/April/09.
THE NINTH WAVE 5.10b R 12m
A very good DWS for a high tide. Ride the Tsunami to the right angled arete. Climb the left side of the arete to the roof and pull over this on organ pipe stalactites to gain deep caves and a rest. Surf back left before climbing to the top. Grant Farquhar 2/April/09.
Topo of the DWS sector of Tsunami Wall by Grant Farquhar.