Spanish Point

Access these areas by swimming or boat eastwards on the north shore from Spanish Point park. They are all fairly shallow and high tide is advisable.

MOUNT ISLAND

The easternmost island has an arch on the north-east point.

NOBODY EXPECTS THE SPANISH INQUISITION 5.8 10m traverse

From ledges on the north side of the arch, sea level traverse through the cave and continue around to regain the ledge. Grant Farquhar 28/6/13.

COVE POINT

The west facing point opposite Mount Island has an overhanging prow with a white streak up the middle.

CARDINAL FANG 5.9 R 10m

Swim in to the cave under the white streak or traverse in through the cave from the point. Climb the white streak in the prow. Beware the reef shelf underneath. Jumping should be OK but falling not. Grant Farquhar 2/July/13.

[Untitled]

Cove Point

PLAY SCHOOL

This venue is found after approx 10 mins swimming from Spanish Point and is distinguished by a cave with three windows: a round window, a square window and a triangular window.

BIG TED 5.10b R 7m

Climbs the rib inside the cave immediately west of the round (western) window to top out through the round window. Grant Farquhar 27/8/11.

PHILLIPS COVE

This little crag lies a short swim east of Play School. It is just east of Phillips cove and features a central arch/ cave. The rock quality is very good, as are the routes.

GROOVERIDER 5.10c 4m

This short but worthwhile route takes the obvious shallow groove in the wall left of the arch. Start on the dry ledge on the left and traverse rightwards onto the wall. Dyno your way to a panting climax. Davie Crawford 27/8/11. Second ascent Grant Farquhar 28/8/11.

[Untitled]
Leeroy Beeby on Alien. Photo Grant Farquhar.

ALIEN 5.11c 7m

This is the 3* line in the apex of the through cave. Perfect rock, like Captain Caveman but three times as long. Grant Farquhar 28/8/11.

[Untitled]
Leeroy Beeby on Alien. Photo Grant Farquhar.


ALIEN2 5.11a 7m

Start on the landward side of the cave as for Alien. Follow the lower traverse line to join and then finish as for Grooverider. Grant Farquhar 28/8/11.


SURFING WITH THE ALIEN 5.10b 60m traverse

Start at the bridge on the south side of the through cave. Start traversing the wall to the right inside the cove and continue clockwise around the buttress to end up at the starting point. Grant Farquhar 9/Jul/16.


SEAGULL MANAGER 5.10c R 7m

The obvious overhanging arete to the west of the Alien through cave. Fly in out of nowhere, crap on everybody, and then disappear again. Grant Farquhar 9/Jul/16.

SEAGULL CRAG

Another minor venue with some short but worthwhile routes. The bay between Phillips Cove area and the wooden jetty near the foot of Seagull Lane contains overhanging white rock and a dry hermit cave at the back.

[Untitled]
Seagull Crag is just beyond the wooden pier. Photo Grant Farquhar.

THE GULL FROM IPANEMA 5.10c 7m

Start off the wooden jetty. Sea-level traverse rightwards and finish on the overhanging prow. Grant Farquhar 2/July/13.


GULL POWER 5.11a 7m

From the hermit cave catch a hefty dose of the crabs leftwards along the rising rail to gain and top out on the prow. Grant Farquhar 28/6/13.

[Untitled]

Leeroy Beeby contemplating Gull Power from the hermit cave. Photo Grant Farquhar.